The chain style you choose changes how a piece of jewellery looks, how it wears, and how long it lasts. Belcher, curb, figaro, rope, box, and snake chains all have distinct characteristics — different link shapes, different weights, different strengths. This guide covers the most common chain link types, how to tell them apart, and which one suits what you're trying to do.
The Most Common Chain Link Types
Most sterling silver chains fall into six categories. Each has a recognisable link structure that affects how the chain moves, how it catches light, and how it performs in everyday wear. Understanding the differences makes it significantly easier to choose the right chain for a necklace, bracelet, or pendant.
Belcher Chain
The belcher chain is one of the most widely used chain styles in UK jewellery. It is made from round or D-shaped links of uniform size, each sitting flat and interlocking with the next at a 90-degree angle. The result is a bold, consistent look that sits close to the skin.
Belcher chains are sometimes called rolo chains in American jewellery terminology — the terms refer to the same link style. The belcher name originates in Britain and remains the standard term in the UK and Australia.
In sterling silver, a belcher chain looks substantial even in finer gauges. It works equally well as a standalone necklace or as a base for a pendant. The flat link structure means it rarely kinks and is straightforward to repair if a link is damaged.
Silver Hollow's sterling silver belcher bracelet is one of our most consistently popular pieces — the wide flat links wear comfortably as a bracelet and hold their shape well with daily use.
Curb Chain
A curb chain starts as a cable chain — oval links connected together — then each link is twisted so the entire length of the chain lies flat against the body. The twist is what defines a curb chain. When you run your finger along it, it should feel smooth and lie completely flat.
Curb chains tend to look heavier and more structured than belcher chains, particularly in wider gauges. A fine-gauge curb chain works well under a pendant without competing with it for attention. A heavier gauge curb chain is bold enough to wear alone and has historically been associated with men's jewellery, though that distinction has largely disappeared.
In sterling silver, curb chains are robust and resistant to kinking — the interlocking flat links hold their shape well. Curb vs belcher: the practical difference is the twist. A belcher link is round or D-shaped. A curb link is oval and twisted flat. Side by side the curb chain looks smoother; the belcher looks rounder.
Figaro Chain
The figaro chain alternates between one longer oval link and two or three shorter round links. The pattern repeats along the full length of the chain, creating a rhythmic visual sequence that distinguishes it from the uniform look of a belcher or curb chain.
Figaro chains originated in Italy and remain popular across Europe. The varied link size makes them visually interesting without being heavily textured. They sit flat and wear comfortably as both necklaces and bracelets.
Our sterling silver figaro bracelet uses the classic alternating link pattern and is available in a comfortable everyday-wear length.
Rope Chain
A rope chain is made from twisted strands of metal links wound together in a spiral to create a rope-like structure. The twisting means the chain catches light from multiple angles simultaneously, giving it a natural brilliance that flat-link chains can't match. No additional stones or pendants are needed for a rope chain to look striking.
Rope chains are among the stronger chain styles because the twisted structure distributes tension across multiple links rather than concentrating it at single connection points. They work well at longer lengths — 20 to 24 inches — where the rope texture has room to be appreciated.
Our sterling silver rope chain bracelet shows the twisted link structure clearly — the way the chain moves in light is one of its strongest selling points.
Box Chain
A box chain is made from square or cube-shaped links connected at their corners to form a smooth, consistent tube. Each link is folded flat wire rather than wire bent into a loop, giving the chain a more geometric, architectural character than round-link styles.
Box chains reflect light in a clean, even way and have a slightly stiff drape compared to belcher or curb chains. They are particularly good for pendants because the square link holds a pendant bail in place without rotating, keeping the pendant centred. The clasp attachment point is also stronger than on many round-link chains.
Snake Chain
A snake chain is made from tightly connected rings or plates that form a seamless, smooth tube. When you run your finger along it there is almost no texture — it feels like a continuous band of metal rather than linked sections. Snake chains have a sleek, modern look and drape fluidly against the body.
The downside of snake chains is that they are difficult to repair. Because the links are so tightly connected, a break or kink in the chain typically cannot be fixed at a single point — it often requires a full replacement section. For everyday wear with a pendant, a more repairable chain style is a more practical choice.
Choosing a Chain for a Pendant
The best chain for a pendant depends on the weight of the pendant and how you want it to sit. A few principles that apply regardless of the specific pendant:
Match the gauge to the pendant weight. A fine chain under a heavy pendant will show wear at the bail connection point over time. Choose a chain whose links are substantial enough to support the pendant without strain.
Consider how the bail sits. Box chains hold a pendant bail in place without rotating — useful if the pendant has a specific orientation. Belcher and cable chains allow the bail to move freely, which suits pendants that look the same from any angle.
Avoid snake chains for heavy pendants. The tightly packed structure can stress around the bail connection point. Belcher, curb, and box chains are all better suited to carrying a pendant for extended daily wear.
For a broader guide to chain necklace lengths, which styles suit different necklines, and how to care for sterling silver chains, our complete guide to chain necklaces covers the full picture.
Soldered vs Unsoldered Chains
A soldered chain has each link sealed closed with a small amount of solder — a metal alloy applied at the join point and heated to fuse the link shut. An unsoldered chain has links that are bent closed but not fused.
The practical difference is strength and security. Soldered links cannot open under tension in the way that unsoldered links can. For chains worn daily and for chains carrying a pendant, soldered links are the more secure choice. Unsoldered chains are more common in costume jewellery and lower-price-point pieces.
When buying sterling silver chain jewellery, look for soldered links if durability matters. A quality handmade piece will use fully soldered construction throughout.
Which Chain Link Type Is the Strongest?
Rope chains and box chains are generally considered the strongest chain styles for everyday wear. The rope chain's twisted structure distributes tension across multiple points simultaneously. The box chain's geometric link construction is inherently rigid and resists being pulled apart at connection points.
Curb and belcher chains are also robust, particularly in heavier gauges. Snake chains, despite their smooth appearance, are the most vulnerable to damage from sharp pulls or kinks and the most difficult to repair.
Gauge — the thickness of the wire used to make each link — matters as much as link style. A fine-gauge rope chain will not be as strong as a heavy-gauge curb chain. For a chain worn daily with a pendant, a medium-gauge belcher, curb, or box chain in solid sterling silver is a reliable choice.
For more on sterling silver quality, what the 925 hallmark means, and how to tell genuine silver from plated alternatives, our guide to sterling silver and the 925 hallmark covers everything worth knowing.
Frequently Asked Questions
What is the difference between a belcher and a curb chain?
Both are popular chain styles that lie flat, but the link shape is different. A belcher chain uses round or D-shaped links. A curb chain uses oval links that have been twisted so the chain lies completely flat. Side by side, the curb chain looks smoother and more uniform; the belcher chain looks rounder and more open. Both work well as necklaces and bracelets and suit a range of pendant styles.
What chain link type is best for a pendant?
Belcher, curb, and box chains are the most practical choices for pendant wear. Box chains hold the pendant bail in place without rotating, keeping the pendant centred. Belcher and curb chains allow the bail to move freely. All three are available in gauges robust enough to support a pendant during daily wear. Avoid snake chains for heavy pendants — they are difficult to repair if the chain is stressed at the bail point.
What does soldered chain mean?
A soldered chain has each link sealed shut with solder — a metal alloy fused at the join point under heat. This closes the link permanently, making it significantly harder to pull open under tension. Unsoldered chains have links bent closed but not fused, which makes them more vulnerable to opening under stress. For daily wear and for pendant chains, soldered construction is the more durable and secure choice.
Which chain link type is the strongest?
Rope chains and box chains are generally the strongest chain styles due to their construction — rope chains distribute tension across multiple twisted strands, and box chains have a rigid geometric link structure that resists pulling apart. Curb and belcher chains in medium to heavy gauges are also very durable. Snake chains are the most fragile and the hardest to repair if damaged.
What types of chain links suit bracelets?
Belcher, curb, figaro, and rope chains all work well as bracelets. Belcher and curb chains in medium gauge are comfortable for daily wear and resistant to kinking. Rope chains have a distinctive appearance that works well at bracelet length. Figaro chains add visual interest without being heavy. Box chains suit a more minimal, architectural aesthetic. The right choice depends on the look you want and how robust you need the bracelet to be.